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SR20DET into a Datsun 620

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Braden620 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 12:20pm

Ok Im gonna post on this a little @ a time just because I dont think my brain can handle typing all this information one setting. Before you attempt this swap you need to realize that installing an engine in a vehicle that it didnt orginally come in is quite a challenge. If you are not mechanically inclined, dont have a budget, and dont know what DC current is then you dont need to be performing this swap. You will need approx $2,000- 2500  in supporting parts for this engine swap.  You will also need basic hand tools, a garage that you can occupy for several weeks to several months, a welder, alot of patience, and a big wad of $$$$$.

Disclaimer- I am not responsible for your ignorance, I will do my best to describe my experience in swapping this engine. However, you must have common sense while working on this project. 

DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT DOING THIS SWAP WITHOUT UPGRADING YOUR BRAKING SYSTEM OR YOU WILL KILL YOURSELF OR SOMEONE ELSE!!!!!

Beebani's Brake brackets (best option in my opinion)   

www.datsunminitruckin.com/hardbody-disc-brake-brackets-for-trucks_topic1304.html

Acquiring an Engine

To swap this engine, you probably want to buy one!! I bought mine from Carlos @ JDM of Miami. I called him on the phone and haggled a little on price.  You want to buy an S13  Blacktop or Redtop, This swap is for S13 ONLY and not for S14 or S15.  I paid roughly 1800$  shipped to my brothers work (they have a forklift).  I would reccomend shipping the engine to a buisness that has the capability of unloading the engine and loading it into your truck. Its cheaper and ALOT easier this way.  

You want to find an engine that has the lowest possible mileage and abuse. Look for things like broken parts, missing parts, corrosion, broken off bolts, oil leaks, burned or cut wires etc.  Study pictures of the engine you wish to buy. Ask lots of questions to the seller and make sure they have some sort of warranty or return policy should something be amiss.  Be smart and dont buy and engine on a whim. Dont buy an engine that looks clean in the pictures, sometimes sellers clean up the engine to make it look more presentable. I would rather buy a dirty engine SO I know exactly what I am getting.

Once you receive your engine inspect it for damage. Check the condition of the oil, and antifreeze. These two fluids can tell you alot about the engines condition. Get the engine up on a stand so you can begin to work on it. I prefer to scrub and deagrease the engine immediately. It makes things alot simpler when everything is clean. 

To put the engine on the stand you must remove the clutch and flywheel. The flywheel bolts are a 14mm 12point so be sure you have one of these sockets so you dont have to run and go buy one like I did.


Engine Mounts

To fit your sr20 into your 620 pickup you will need 

1. Stock Sr20det steel mounts (the ones bolted to the engine block)

2.  Stock 620 rubber Mounts (the ones bolted to the frame)

You will need to strip your engine bay down so you can work in there, remove everything!!!!

With your sr20 on an engine stand   remove the intake plenum, alternator, power steering pump, ac compressor, exhaust manifold, turbo, all coolant lines, oil lines. Make sure to bag and label all of your parts as you remove them there are alot of bolts on this engine and it can get really confusing if you dont know where they go. Invest on a box of sandwich bags and a sharpie, they are your friend.

 You want your block to be bare.




With your bare block bolt the rubber 620 mounts to the sr20's steel mounts.(you may need to file the notches on the steel mounts to accept the alignment pins on the rubber mounts, you will understand what I am talking about when you try to bolt the mounts up, use a round file and you will be fine)


You are now ready to test fit your sr20!!!  Raise the engine up on the proper engine hoist, chain hoist etc.  Slowly lower the engine down into the engine bay, you want to position the engine so that you have clearance behind the block for coolant lines etc. You also want clearance in front of the block for radiator, and fans.  You can see approx how close my engine is to the firewall. You will have to test fit the transmission at this time as well. USE THE STOCK 620 RUBBER TRANSMISSION MOUNT AND BOLT IT TO THE FS5W71C  SR2ODET TRANSMISSION. You will need to slide the transmission under the truck and hoist it up from underneath. It is not easy but it can be done!!!! (I had to slide the engine forward, bolt up the tranny, then slide them both back into position. This is because the firewall gets in the way)  Once you have the tranny bolted up you will need to position it on the crossmember so the engine will be tilted at the proper angle. You may wish to notch the holes in your crossmember at this time so you can bolt it up to keep it from moving out of alignment. 

I used a carbide step bit in a drill to notch the holes in the crossmember. It is best to place the crossmember in a vice so you can work on it easier.  The amount or material you will need to remove from each hole varies, notch a little at a time and test fit the crossmember. (get used to test fitting as you will be doing this alot)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Notice how the mount is not lined up, this is where you need to measure!!!!

 

 

Once you have the engine positioned properly and partially resting on the frame mounts (see Pictures)  You can then carefully measure the distance in which you will need to move your frame mounts forward.  put a peice of masking tape on each fender and record the measurment for each side so you dont forget it. This is a critical step so make sure you measure several times.

With your measurments taken you can then remove the engine form the engine bay and put it back on your stand.

Very carefully use a die grinder with a very thin (1/16") cut off wheel cut the welds on the factory frame mounts to remove them.  Once removed you can then scoot them forward the amount you determined when test fitting the engine.  Be sure to keep the same height and angle as the factory mount location (you will notice the frame horns angle down towards the front of the truck) Tack the mounts in position and double check all of your measurements. Weld your mounts in their new location. The passenger side mount should sit a little further forward than the drivers side, this is normal. If your mounts are evenly spaced then you didnt measure properly.

If you havent ever welded before I would suggest letting someone experienced do this because this isnt a weld you want cracking under torque!!  After welding dress down your wleds so that you can plate over the top of your weld for added strength. (see pictures)









If you have done your job correctly your engine will drop in easier than the factory L20B!!   Pat your self on the back, and look forward to the weeks worth of work that still lay ahead!!!Big smile




Edited by Braden620 - 31 Dec 2011 at 12:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nissanboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 5:49pm
Awesome! So one question I have about this is when test fittin the transmission, I will have to drill holes on the crossmember for it to bolt up properly? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 8:16pm
Yes all you need to do is use your original rubber 620 mount bolted to the sr20 tranny, then slot your holes in your crossmember about 1/2 inch and thats it!   Its a bit of a pain to bolt the engine and tranny together when doing this swap but then again I was doing this by myself and im not that big of a guy (5'10"   160lbs.)  I had to jack the truck up and slide the tranny underneath and raise it up with a jack. I then lowered the engine into the engine bay. You have to scoot the engine forward, bring the transmission forward and mate it with the engine, and then scoot the engine and tranny now bolted together back into their final position.   It sounds bad but once you get in there working with it its not really a big deal, especially if you have some help. Atleast you will know by looking at my pictures that it CAN be done and you will have plenty of confidence to get you through it. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nissanboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 8:33pm
Sounds pretty simple, It'll prob be easier once I start getting into it and actually getting a visual of it haha 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 10:58pm

Coming Soon

Cooling System

Wiring

Charge System

Boost Control

Tuning


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nissanboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 2:25am
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Cooling System

The cooling system is an important part of this swap. I have heard rumors that the factory radiator is sufficient for this swap but for space issues. With the added heat load from the front mount intercooler, space issues, and to upgrade to a modern unit, I opted to purchase an aluminum radiator from griffin.   The radiator was not a bolt in option but it is not hard to install. 

I would also recommend replacing your water pump with a new OEM unit.  Its cheap insurance against future repairs.  You can use either the factory s13 pump or upgrade to a newer s14 Higher volume pump. The s13 pump works fine especially with this radiator.

Parts Needed

Griffin radiator Part # 2-55185-X (be sure to order a cap as these come without one)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-2-55185-X/

Lower Hose Dayco # A71600 A quantity of two are needed

One  Factory 620 upper hose

1.5" barbed steel coupling (industrial supply)  (Brass would be better)

6 T-Bolt hose clamps  (Industrial Supply)

Hose reducer Car Quest #26390

Hose reducer car Quest #26391

2 L brackets   (Custom)

Modifying The Water Outlet

The factory sr20 water outlet (right of the valve cover) will not work as is. It simply needs to be shortened.  You simply remove the section of the neck that isnt round and the tig weld the now 2 round pieces together.



Fitting the Radiator

On early 620's  with l18 or smaller engines you will notice a straight core support, on later 620's with L20B  the core support is notched.  My truck had an L20B therefore my core support was notched, yours may or may not be so some extra modifications may or may not be required to fit this particular radiator. You will need to fabricate 2 L brackets to mount the radiator. And also a cover plate for the top of the radiator. 

Set your radiator in your engine bay and support it with blocks/tape or whatever you can to get it in place for measuring.   Your new radiator will be wider than your stock unit. You will want to notch out your core support so the radiator will sit flush.  The radiator should be level with the top of the core support, do not raise it any higher or lower or you will have clearance issues. See pictures below.








The is where you use the L brackets.




Edited by Braden620 - 18 Jan 2012 at 2:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 6:15pm

 The L brackets you make will hold the weight of the radiator but you will still need a small plate to keep the top from tilting backwards. I bent mine out of some thin sheetmetal. and bolted it to the core support, it doesnt physically attatch to the radiator it just "clamps" on it.

Hoses

You will need to modify and fabricate hoses for your new radiator.  For the upper hose you simply shorten a stock 620 upper hose.

The lower hose you will need to piece together. (its a pain in the ass getting it all together but it works very well) I built my lower hose out of  The dayco # A71600. I  used a steel barbed coupling to mate them (wont rust in your antifreeze if mixed properly).  You will need to do some careful trimming and fighting to get this thing together but I have had Zero leaks or problems since I put mine together. I had to trim the length of the steel coupling slightly. The two hose reducers are both used on the hose end that mates with the water neck on the sr20 block. (See pictures for assembly) 

 T-BOLT CLAMPS ARE MANDATORY ON THE LOWER HOSE!!!!!  







Edited by Braden620 - 18 Jan 2012 at 2:37pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 6:52pm

Heater Hoses

The factory heater hoses in your 620 pickup are 5/8" opposed to your sr20 hoses which measure 3/4"

This is not a problem. Thankfully the auto parts store has many pre bent hoses to choose from.  You will need several bent hoses and you may be required to make a few trips back and forth to the store to get what you need. A little trick I learned is to get a piece of rigid wire and bend it in the shape and length you need. Take it with you to the store and try to match it up.  WHile you are at the store get 2  heater hose reducer couplings, they are brass and reduce the hose from 3/4 to 5/8 they also come with some nice clamps!   To attach your heater hoses to the sr20 block you will need to cut your steel hardline that is bolted to the sr20 block, cut it flush with the shorter hardline. see pictures

Parts needed (some may not be listed this is just what I have in my records, please refer to pictures for any parts in question)

Dayco # 80411 90* Heater hose

Dayco # 80400   heater Hose, quantity of 2 needed   

Dayco # B70815 Molded Heater Hose

Dayco # 80433  Brass connector kit, Quantity of 2 needed

1 ft 3/4"  straight heater hose

Dorman # 55107   Brass Tee

Note: The above hoses may need to be cut to length to fit your particular application




Remove the bracket to the left of the freeze plugs, also remove the 3/4" 90* hose attached to it.   You will then cut the steel line that is to the right of the freeze plugs just before it 90* around the back of the block.  When connecting your heater hose to this cut hardline please use two clamps for added insurance agaist leakage and blow off, as when you cut you removed the factory bead on the end of the pipe. See Pictures below. 

There should be NO factory coolant hoses behind the block! 

Note: the small rubber hose pictured Was the factory coolant line for the turbo, dont worry about removing it as you will reconnect it using the brass tee (Dorman#55107)

In the pictures below you can see where I ran a small rubber hose from the steel coolant line on the turbo, around the back of the block to the tee. Just add the T in line as pictured with the existing sr20 coolant lines. Make sure there are no kinks in this hose as it provides coolant to the center section of your turbo! 









Edited by Braden620 - 18 Jan 2012 at 2:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nissanboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2012 at 6:27pm
One quick question, is there any point of getting the s13 sr20det wiring harness or stock ecu? I figured the wiring harness might save me some hassle but I don't see a point in the stock ecu. Just want to make sure though.
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