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My 79 620 sr20 swap

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jovanmunoz91 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 12:40am
So i have recently purchased an sr20det so i was just wondering how i can go about to make motor mounts for my sr20 to fit on my truck and i am trying to the the entire swap in about to weeks before i go back to school help please Ouch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EzCruiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 4:11am
BRADENNNNN!!!!!    Oh hey jovan!  Welcome!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EzCruiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 4:12am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:11pm
Hey, nice to see you found your way here!!!! I will be glad to help in any way I can.  Big smile
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jovanmunoz91 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jovanmunoz91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 12:00am
so the only thing i am worried about is the motor mounts, meaning what did you use for the mounts that go on welded on the truck ? and second of all the cpu harness how do i wire that up (its uncut)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smartmonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 1:38am
Welcome to DMT!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 11:20am

Ok Im gonna post on this a little @ a time just because I dont think my brain can handle typing all the information you need in one setting.  I hate to burst your bubble but trying to do this swap in 2 weeks is insane,  maybe if you had done it before, had superior fabrication skills, unlimited money, and a secretary to order you parts all day.   You will need approx $2,000- 2500  in supporting parts for this engine swap.  DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT DOING THIS SWAP WITHOUT UPGRADING YOUR BRAKING SYSTEM OR YOU WILL KILL YOURSELF OR SOMEONE ELSE!!!!!

Engine Mounts

To fit your sr20 into your 620 pickup you will need 

1. Stock Sr20det steel mounts (the ones bolted to the engine block)

2.  Stock 620 rubber Mounts (the ones bolted to the frame)

You will need to strip your engine bay down so you can work in there, remove everything!!!!

With your sr20 on an engine stand   remove the intake plenum, alternator, power steering pump, ac compressor, exhaust manifold, turbo, all coolant lines, oil lines.   You want your block to be bare.




With your bare block bolt the rubber 620 mounts to the sr20's steel mounts.(you may need to file the notches on the steel mounts to accept the alignment pins on the rubber mounts, you will understand what I am talking about when you try to bolt the mounts up, use a round file and you will be fine)


You are now ready to test fit your sr20!!!  Raise the engine up on the proper engine hoist, chain hoist etc.  Slowly lower the engine down into the engine bay, you want to position the engine so that you have clearance behind the block for coolant lines etc. You also want clearance in front of the block for radiator, and fans.  You can see approx how close my engine is to the firewall. You will have to test fit the transmission at this time as well. USE THE STOCK 620 RUBBER TRANSMISSION MOUNT AND BOLT IT TO THE FS5W71C  SR2ODET TRANSMISSION. You will need to slide the transmission under the truck and hoist it up from underneath. It is not easy but it can be done!!!! (I had to slide the engine forward, bolt up the tranny, then slide them both back into position. This is because the firewall gets in the way)  Once you have the tranny bolted up you will need to position it on the crossmember so the engine will be tilted at the proper angle. You may wish to notch the holes in your crossmember so you can bolt it up to keep it from moving out of alignment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Notice how the mount is not lined up, this is where you need to measure!!!!

 

 

Once you have the engine positioned properly and partially resting on the frame mounts (see Pictures)  You can then carefully measure the distance in which you will need to move your frame mounts forward.  put a peice of masking tape on each fender and record the measurment for each side so you dont forget it. This is a critical step so make sure you measure several times.

With your measurments taken you can then remove the engine form the engine bay and put it back on your stand.

Very carefully use a die grinder with a very thin (1/16") cut off wheel cut the welds on the factory frame mounts to remove them.  Once removed you can then scoot them forward the amount you determined when test fitting the engine.  Be sure to keep the same height and angle as the factory mount location (you will notice the frame horns angle down towards the front of the truck) Tack the mounts in position and double check all of your measurements. Weld your mounts in their new location.

If you havent ever welded before I would suggest letting someone experienced do this because this isnt a weld you want cracking under torque!!  After welding dress down your wleds so that you can plate over the top of your weld for added strength. (see pictures)









If you have done your job correctly your engine will drop in easier than the factory L20B!!   Pat your self on the back, and look forward to the weeks worth of work that still lay ahead!!!Big smile

P.S. I will update later with more information,  you wont be to the wiring phase for several weeks so we can start that complicated venture then.





Edited by Braden620 - 31 Dec 2011 at 11:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 11:59am
Post up pics of your truck and give us some info about yourself. We are super glad to have you here!!
If we ever forget that we are One Nation Under God, then we will be a nation gone under.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jovanmunoz91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 10:33pm
Ill post pictures starting this friday that is when i am starting the swap. Another question did you cut off the original brakets of the truck and just re welded them in a different spot or did you make them your self ?? that is probably my biggest question ??

And i am glad to be here brother, learned a lot over the forum.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jovanmunoz91 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2012 at 11:20pm

Parts Included:
• Complete Engine
- Cylinder Head
- Intake Manifold
- Cylinder Block
- Sensors
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Distributor
- Throttle Body
- Alternator
- Ignition Wires
- Pulleys
- Valve cover
- Oil Pan
- Turbocharger

• 5-Speed RWD Transmission

• Computer (ECU)

• Wiring Harness (Un-cut)

• Ignitor Chip

• MAF Sensor


This is what my engine has and i have also purchased a t4 turbo and the complete kit intercooler and everything other than that what else would i need for the swap. coils and what else ?


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